Amid the hustle and bustle of the souks of old Dubai, scent makers mix and match their potions to create fragrances customized to their customers’ tastes. Wander with me to Yusuf Bhai, both the name of the shop and Dubai’s artisanal perfumer, and watch the potion masters, Yusuf and his son Bilal, combine ingredients to create a bottle of your new scent.

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