Jordan, a country that continues to amaze me. From the buzzing souks, to its ancient ruins and wonders, to its mouth-watering cuisine, and its deep blue sea. All mind-blowingly beautiful. Better yet, I was incredibly lucky to visit this time with the awesome wandering duo Kelly and Alex, whose friendship I will forever cherish. Here’s my guide to visiting this gorgeous country steeped in history.
FLYING TO JORDAN
Depending on your nationality, a visa may be required to enter Jordan. E-visas can be obtained upon application online, and visas on arrival are also available for certain nationalities. For more information, visit the Ministry of Interior website via the link here. Visa costs start from 40 JOD. Please note that if you choose to purchase the Jordan Pass in advance and qualify with a stay for a minimum of 3 nights/4 days, the visa costs are waived. Kindly note that this does not apply to visitors with Arab nationalities as per the Jordan Pass FAQs.
Prior to travel, all passengers (except Jordanians) must complete a required form for ‘Travel to Jordan Declaration Form’ online via the link here. Upon submission of the form, a QR code will be created automatically based on the given information. Save the form and print a hard copy as it is required when boarding the airline and at the borders upon entry.
PCR tests/Vaccinations: Both PCR tests and vaccinations were not required for entry to Jordan.
P.S: Rules and requirements may change, so always check official government websites for updates and confirm with your airline carrier.
AMMAN
TRANSPORT FROM & TO THE AIRPORT
When you arrive at Queen Alia International Airport in Amman, there are several ways to get from the airport to your hotel and back.
Taxi: Available 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Located outside the arrivals terminal at a taxi stand (follow the signs). Prices are posted at the stand at the airport, are fixed by law, and will vary depending on drop-off location. The fare is to be paid in advance at the stand by cash or credit card. Tips can be paid directly to the driver in cash only.
Hotel Transfers: you can arrange to book private transfer services where you are greeted by an agent at the exit gate and escorted to the vehicle then followed by a hassle-free drive to the hotel.
UBER/Careem: are an available option and are highly recommended (particularly for the return trip to the airport).
HOW TO GET AROUND
Amman
Walking: Amman is not the most pedestrian-friendly city to get around. In certain areas, e.g. Rainbow Street, Weibdeh, it’s certainly do-able, if not recommended. However, to get around between other further districts, one must rely on transport.
UBER/Careem: Both are highly recommended. Opt for the non-yellow cars.
Other cities and sights (Madaba, Petra, Dead Sea, Jerash, Wadi Rum, Aqaba)
Taxi: in most of these cities, public taxis are the only available option. Taxis can be flagged down from the streets. Prices MUST be discussed beforehand, and whenever possible, the drivers should have the meters turned on. Otherwise expect to pay more. Only cash is accepted. Make sure to carry small change.
Arranged tour transport: In all likelihood, you will have booked these trips with tour companies who will typically provide chauffeured transportation. Recommended.
WHERE TO STAY
St. Regis Amman was a great choice, located in Amman’s Abdoun district. It’s a very modern building that oozes elegance with its black and white décor. Rooms are spacious, clean, and offer nice city views. The breakfast buffet was fantastic and delicious. Hotel lobby bar was also a nice spot. Didn’t get the chance to explore the pool or on-site restaurants because we spent most of our time out and about.
WHAT TO SEE & DO
Amman Citadel Hill
Remains of the Roman Temple of Hercules built during the reign of Emperor Marcus Aurelius (AD 161-80).
Don’t miss: the Umayyad Palace and Mosque, the Archaeology Museum, and the remains of a large Roman statue of Hercules.
Roman Theatre
Downtown Amman (El Balad)
Rainbow Street
Jabal Al Weibdeh
Royal Automobile Museum
The museum houses a number of pretty cool cars and motorcycles from the personal collection of the late King Hussein. Although living in Dubai may have numbed me to supercars, the place is quite impressive and each vehicle has a story to tell, revealing momentous moments in Jordan’s history and historic photos of the royalty riding in style (and at some point, literally riding in the ocean).
WHERE TO EAT
Hashem
Abu Jbara
Shawerma Reem
Al Quds for mansaf
Fakhreldin
Shams El Balad
Cooking Class at Beit Sitti
Habibah Sweets for kunafeh
MOUNT NEBO & MADABA
WHAT TO SEE & DO
Memorial Church of Moses
‘Mount Nebo is steeped in religious significance and is believed to be the place where Moses saw the sacred promised land.’
- Tourist Jordan
Inscription below: Just as Moses lifted up the Serpent in the Desert, the Son of Man must be lifted up, So that Everyone Who Believes in Him may have Eternal Life. (John 3:14-15).
Greek Orthodox Basilica of St. George
In Madaba, a 19th century Greek Orthodox Basilica of St George houses a treasure.
‘Imagine the excitement in 1884 when Christian builders came across the remnants of a Byzantine church… Among the rubble, having survived willful destruction, fire & neglect, the flooring they discovered wasn’t just another mosaic but one with extraordinary significance: to this day, it represents the oldest map of Palestine in existence.’
- Lonely Planet.
St. Steven's Church
PETRA
WHERE TO STAY
2 recommended options: Either the Petra Guest House or the Movenpick Resort Petra. I’ve stayed in both on different trips and would suggest either hotel purely based on location. They’re both a stone’s throw away from the Petra entrance area and proximity is absolutely key when you visit this Unesco World Heritage Site as you’ll save time in the morning and when you return from your hike. (Your feet will thank you.) Do note that the hotels are older, but are comfortable, clean, and most importantly close enough.
WHAT TO SEE & DO
Petra by Day
Did you know that Petra means rock in Greek? The rock-cut capital city of the Nabateans was once upon a time a major caravan hub for the incenses of Arabia, silks of China, & spices of India (UNESCO).
Visitors will follow the trail to the Treasury ‘Al Khaznah’. Its name ‘the Treasury’ came from the Bedouin belief that the urn carved above the entrance contained the hidden treasures (gold) of an Egyptian pharaoh. The urn is pockmarked with bullet holes, apparently ‘evidence of past attempts to uncover the mythical bounty.’ (BBC)
‘It is one of the most elegant remains of antiquity existing,’ - Swiss explorer Jean Louis Burckhardt wrote in his diary in 1812.
Important to know: much has changed in Petra since my previous visits. Many improvements as well as unfortunate setbacks. Based on what I saw this visit in 2022, there were fewer animals and no feeding/water stations (at least not any within sight). Sadly many of the animals resort to eating plastic and rubbish from nearby trash cans (this I saw). I believe that offering camel/donkey/horse rides as a service at Petra should be banned altogether especially with the realities of their living conditions. Please do keep this mind when visiting and avoid taking these rides, as photogenic as they may be. Tourism shouldn’t thrive at their expense. Here are a few ways one can help:
Do not take up any of these rides.
Do not stay silent if you see abuse.
Do not carry plastic with you to the site. Use refillable bottles for water.
Electric buggies are now offered as a means of transport . So when your feet get tired, you can opt for a ride back to the entrance by buggy for 25 JOD, paid in cash.
This list is by no means exhaustive, but I hope it serves as a starting point to your own research and knowledge.
Petra by Night
A trip to Petra is not complete without witnessing the rock city on a moonlit night. Walk towards the Treasury guided by the stars’ ancient light.
The Petra Night Show runs every Monday, Wednesday and Thursday, and starts at 20:30 from the Petra Visitor Centre. Tickets must be purchased for the night show.
WADI RUM
WHERE TO STAY
Any of the highly rated bubble glamping hotels. We stayed at the Memories Aicha Luxury Camp for 1 night which was a lovely experience. It's a fairly big camp with several different types of 'rooms'. The ones with the domes are called the panoramic tents; whereas the junior and executive rooms are basically regular rooms/huts. I would definitely recommend the panoramic tents. Before arriving at the camp, we took a long drive around Wadi Rum exploring. Once we arrived at the camp which is located amongst others in a gated area, we checked in. They offer both dinner and breakfast the next day as a part of their room rates. They also offer a star gazing session at 8pm which you can sign up for to attend. Once you're in the room, I would highly recommend sitting outside (some rooms have outdoor decks and chairs) and admire the sky which is absolutely breathtaking. Never seen anything like it. The panoramic rooms sell out quick especially during high season so my advice would be to book early.
WHAT TO SEE & DO
Wadi Rum by Day
Wadi Rum by Night
AQABA
WHERE TO STAY
Al Manara Aqaba is an excellent hotel option in the city of Aqaba. It’s a relatively newer property with big rooms and gorgeous balcony views of the sea. The breakfast buffet was scrumptious, particularly the cheese varieties. Highly recommend sitting outside for breakfast and meeting the resident kitties. The hotel has a somewhat hidden pool (not the main one) that invited guests can access which is serene and perfect for a day of toasting under the sun.
WHAT TO SEE & DO
Snorkeling
In Aqaba, snorkeling and diving enthusiasts can scour the underwater world and explore what lies beneath. It is located at the northern tip of the Red Sea, and is home to some spectacular marine wildlife, as well as sunken tanks and aircrafts.
Marina Village, Ayla
A luxury shopping and dining district in Aqaba. Several boutique shops with items handmade by local designers. Many licensed restaurants serving a variety of cuisines.
WHERE TO EAT
Hashem
Dayaa Shawarma
7 Spices
Al Shinawi